Couture Stripes: Giambattista Valli

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture F/W 2014/15 

Amongst the frou frou and fabulousness at the recent Haute Couture shows, perhaps the most refreshing thing were the stripes at Giambattista Valli.

Minimal and wearable; two words not usually synonymous with Haute Couture but Valli pulls off the monochrome lines with sophistication. They were moulded into wrap dresses, in the pleats of structured A-line skirts and wedged between sheer silk. Such a seemingly simple print was given the couture upgrade through the mix of materials and clash of narrow and thick stripes extending in all different directions.

Although this 2014/15 collection was labelled Autumn and Winter, the clean cut turbans, pulled back hair and Moscot sunglasses injected a carefree resort vibe. Seems like this season's Valli woman will be travelling in nothing less than Haute Couture.

Picture Source: http://en.vogue.fr

By Sharon Jiang 

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Happy Chinese New Year

Picture Source: http://www.vogue.it/

Beijing Haute Couture designer, Guo Pei, makes me incredibly proud to be Chinese. Usually the 'Made in China' tag is associated with mass produced, 'cheap' goods. However the ones marked on these gowns are a whole different story with pieces costing up to $800 000 USD.

The design above was worn by Miss Universe China 2012, Ji Dan Xu. Such a masterpiece inspired by the Qing Dynasty 'Qing-Hua' (blue flowers) porcelain won the Best National Costume Award (with good reason!).

HAPPY CHINESE NEW YEAR!

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Valentino HC F/W 2013-14

Touching on brocade in my last post, it seems a major influence in Valentino's Haute Couture F/W 2013/14 collection harks back to the medieval and baroque days. With it's antique gold trimmings and cameo-like windows, showing not a portrait of a human but rhinoceroses and lions, everything was fit for a queen.

That royal air was most apparent in it's ornate intricacies and looking through the details gallery, one can see the amazing craftsmanship. So much so that if Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccoli (creative directors since 2008) told me that their 'blood, sweat and tears' went into each gown, I would believe them.

Working with materials such as tweed and cashmere, the collection screamed elegance and expense. However I also sensed some level of purity. Without getting deep into any biblical references, there was a cleansing element so crisp and upfront as if in midst of purgatory.
Confess everyone, we're under the rule of the Valentino monarchy ... 

Picture Source: http://www.vogue.co.uk/

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Topshop at Met?

Amongst all the Valentino, Rodarte and Gucci, there was an unexpected brand of choice.

Dressed in Topshop (couture nonetheless) were Julianne Hough, Jaime King, Jourdan Dunn, Ashley Madekwe and Nicole Richie. I would be over the moon if one of my designs was worn to the Met Gala (in a parallel universe where I design Haute Couture) but to have showcased five ensembles ... Topshop CEO, Philip Green must be pretty happy with himself.

Of course, these decisions aren't made without commercialism in mind. Topshop is planning to sell those exact gowns in NY, LA, London and online in the beginning of September. Formal season is already upon us ... is it too risky to wait until September and pick one up for $630 - $1050? (Roll in the pre-orders!)

The theme was 'punk' in celebration of the museum's exhibit 'Punk: From Chaos to Couture' and indeed interpreted in many different ways. From baroque to lace, cascades of feathers to layers of tulle, here are some of my best picks from the 2013 Met Gala.

Anja Rubik in Anthony Vaccarello ... Blake Lively in Gucci Premiere ... Cara Delevinge in Burberry 

Anne Hathaway in Valentino ... Rooney Mara in Givenchy 

SJP in Phillip Treacy headpiece ... Alexa Chung in Erdem ... Beyonce in Givenchy 

Picture Source: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/

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Chanel Haute Couture S/S 2013

The theatricality at Chanel never ceases to amaze me. Lets think back; Swedish icebergs at F/W 2010, underwater magic complete with Florence Welch singing in a giant clam that was S/S 2012 and who can forget the runway filled with gigantic wind turbines at S/S 2013. The list can go on forever so with Chanel's past history of drama filled shows, I would expect nothing less.

As a student who studies Shakespeare, it's hard to overlook the reference to 'A Midsummer Night's Dream'. The feathered models with those smudged smokey eyes to me is the perfect portrayal of Titania's fellow fairies. The styling was by no means obsessive compulsive. But it evoked this languid atmosphere as if all were woken from a deep slumber by the arrival of an audience into the Grand Palais.

Such a vision was paralleled by the garments drifting down the runway in the form of tweed capes, thigh high lace boots and floral applique gowns. I particular loved the emphasis on off-the-shoulder necklines, sometimes directly obvious but other times an illusion created by careful layering. Of course, Karl Lagerfeld must always imply a deeper message in his shows, sending down a lesbian bride as the final look. Way to create a lasting impression!

Picture Source: http://www.vogue.co.uk/ 

Haute Couture Inspiration

Picture Source

http://www.vogue.com.au/

Haute Couture means exactly what it is... 'high sewing'. Each garment is made like a piece art... intoducing new forms and details to really evoke that breathtaking feeling. Essentially custom made for various high roller buyers, the general public however can always be inspired by Haute Couture. I felt like pictures of the entire garment from head to toe did not do the piece justice, so I filtered through the details gallery from the F/W 2012/13 shows.
I found layers upon layers of ruffles in the Giambattista Valli show, automatons in Jean Paul Gaultier and a simple clutch of a Chanel bag showing the close-up of tweed... those were the photos that stayed vivid in my mind.

Elie Saab Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2013