INTERVIEW: Fairina Cheng Jewellery

One of the biggest challenges in the fashion industry is to discover 'newness' amidst the cycle of often recycled ideas. It takes a certain drive to create something out of the ordinary knowing there's a risk in the race to stay ahead of the trends. Fairina Cheng, the 29 year old designer, who owns her eponymous jewellery label may have predicted the future of accessories: 3D printed jewellery. It's no wonder with the rapid advancement in technology, that 3D printed pieces might be creeping its way into our wardrobes in the near future changing how we perceive and wear fashion. After all, the 'message is in the medium'. 

Understated and untraditional, Fairina Cheng Jewellery won Community's Choice at the 2014 Etsy Design Awards and is part of the Etsy at David Jones Marketplace from the 4 to 7 December. Here Cheng talks about her label and her love affair with computer-aided design. 

Designer Fairina Cheng 

1. How did you get into jewellery design?

I was working long hours at a full time office job and I enrolled in an evening jewellery course. At that point I was just curious, but it wasn’t long before I fell absolutely in love with the process of manipulating metal.

Soon after, I enrolled in a two-year contemporary jewellery design course, followed by a three-year course in commercial jewellery manufacture. I’m not the kind of person to take big risks. So diving head first into a massive career shift was a bit out of character. It just felt right!

2. Where did the idea to create 3D printed jewellery come from?

In my second year of studying jewellery, we were introduced to computer aided design as one of our subjects. It was fascinating to learn how designs are drawn up on a computer, and especially fascinating to learn how they are brought into their final, three-dimensional form. My experiments during this time led to the development of the Negative/Positive collection!

Rings from the Negative/Positive Collection 

3. Where do you get inspiration from?

Sometimes I’ll catch a fleeting glimpse of an interesting shape or line and it’ll stay in my head and influence my next design. Or I’ll be experimenting on a piece of jewellery and evolve it as I go. Sometimes I start with one idea and by the time I’m finished it’s a completely new design!

Background/Foreground stainless steel mesh stud earrings 

4. Describe your design aesthetic. 

Clean and geometric. Although a few free flowing, organic pieces sneak their way in! 

5. What are some metals you work with when creating the pieces?

I work mostly in silver and gold. But I don’t believe that jewellery should be restricted to just precious metals and gemstones, especially when there are so many interesting materials out there to explore. 

I also work in stainless steel mesh, a material commonly used in industrial applications. It comes in a shimmery grey silver colour and develops a vibrant range of gold, bronze, pink, purple and royal blue hues when heat is applied. 

6. Can you explain the 3D printing process?

First, a design is drawn up on the computer using a 3D modelling program. The file is then sent to the printer and built layer by layer in wax to create a scale model of the piece. On some machines, the model is created in resin and solidified with the help of a laser. 

The printing process usually takes a few hours. The model is then cast into your metal of choice. Where possible, I have a mould made so additional pieces can be created quickly and easily without having to be reprinted.

Often I’ll handmake components such as ring bands and earring posts, before meticulously polishing, packaging and sending the finished gem off to its new owner. 

Jeweller's bench: Behind-the-scenes

7. What do you think is the future of accessories, or fashion as a whole, and how does your label fit into that?

3D design has opened up opportunities to really push the boundaries and create jewellery that would be almost impossible to make by hand alone.

As the technology advances, the power to customise products will increasingly be put into the hands of the everyday shopper. Instead of going to a shop and buying a premade, standard size item off the rack, perhaps we’ll soon be able to go onto their website and tailor a dress or pair of shoes to the perfect fit in minutes! 

It’s exciting to see how fast technology is advancing and I really look forward to seeing its future applications in the world of design.

Note: All pictures belong to Fairina Cheng (Website, Facebook, Instagram) 

By Sharon Jiang 

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INTERVIEW: Belinda Xia Illustration

These 'feel good' drawings surely brightened my day as I couldn't help but smile at the carefree brush strokes and patches of bright colour.

Discovering illustrator Belinda Xia on Instagram reinforced how social media can be the perfect breeding ground for young talents. Scrolling through her profile, I was immediately drawn to her illustrations' youthful and humorous quirk.

Twenty four year old Sydneysider Xia draws for "her own enjoyment" where she recently reignited her love of drawing after she "grew out of it at some point during high school."

Using art as a creative outlet, here I talk to Xia about her surroundings when she's in her design bubble.

What she hears:
"I'm loving Asgeir - he's like an Icelandic Bon Iver, really nice and chilled. I've usually got my iTunes playing a mixture of dorky and current music."




What she sees:
"There's a big bunch of flowers sitting in a glass vase on the windowsill. I draw in a room at the front of the house where I get the best light during the day and coincidentally the best view."

What she smells:
"The flowers on my desk - ideally fragrant pink lillies."

What she has in front of her:
"Arches watercolour paper (300gsm), a small Roymac brush and all my Daler Rowney inks sitting next to my watercolors, which I'll alternate depending on what colours I need."

What distracts her:
"The passerbys out my winder especially on the weekend as there's more of them." 

 

 

All pictures belong to Belinda Xia Illustration 

By Sharon Jiang 

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INTERVIEW: Gypsea Paradise 14/15

'Mayan': Mayan feathers from the rain-forests of Mexico & the Mayan Ruins

'Dino': The minerals 

'Zeepop': double exposed zebras and poppies 

'Nicobar': Nicobar Pigeon from the Andomon Island & Malaysia 

Known for their original and vibrant prints, Gypsea Swimwear's newest 2014/15 collection 'Paradise' showcases the brand's love of nature and design. This Western Australian label has come a long way since their runway debut at 2013 Australian Fashion Week by designing swimwear that's unique in print and cut yet flattering to the female form.

Zebra & Poppies Double Exposure by Misha Ashton Moore

But even after finding success designer Emma Jones and surf photographer Scott Bauer, who run this business together, has not strayed from their design DNA. Gypsea is still that label which merges swimwear with exquisite photography shot by Bauer and other talented photographers and artists.



Such is the importance of original photography that Gypsea has an artist program to support local and international talent. The idea is to accept artists to 'collaborate with Gypsea ... creating a unique piece of wearable art'. This collection features the work of Misha Ashton Moore, Darrell Gulin and Stan and Kaisa Breeden.

Previously I had the pleasure to interview Bauer after the label's debut. This time I catch up with him to talk about the new collection.
These are his thoughts:

On inspiration: "I'm very much an outdoors person, so nature is a big inspiration. This particular collection is very much inspired by my upbringing, from North Western Australia with the Karijini and Ningalo prints." 

On the prints: "The minerals, I've always been amazed by at a young age, the textures and colours are so unique. The feather prints are inspired by amazing Rainforests; Paradise Lost is from the Amazon, Bird of Paradise is from Papua New Guinea, Nicobar is from around the Andamon Islands and Malaysia and Mayan is from the rainforests of Mexico where the Mayan Ruins are." (see photo captions for print information)

Mayan feather by Darrell Gulin 

On designing new cuts: "We're constantly evolving and the ultimate goal is to produce new, contemporary swimwear that is very flattering but also have those staples that we are known for." 

On challenges: "I think sometimes the biggest challenge is to narrow the range down enough so the collections aren't so big. We get so excited it's easy to get out of hand." 

On partnership: "Emma and I work so well now and the design process we have so much fun with." 

'Mayan': Mayan feathers from rain forests of Mexico and the Mayan Ruins 

'Paradise Lost': Macaw Feathers from the Amazon  

'Nicobar': Nicobar Pigeon from the Andomon Islands & Malaysia 

Picture Source: http://www.gypsea.com.au

By Sharon Jiang 

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A Raw Story: Krystle Knight Jewellery

I have had a soft spot for raw crystal jewellery ever since the trend took off. Regardless of whether or not you believe in its powers, admittedly wearing a chunk of crystal does look pretty cool.

Designer Krystle Knight began her eponymous label after being "inspired by the exquisite elemental beauty which surrounds her". The label specialises in creating raw crystal pieces in brass and sterling silver. Today Knight talks about her brand and the spiritual connection she feels with the stones she works with.

1. Describe how Krystle Knight began. 

After working in fashion for seven years, it was a natural progression. I’ve always had a love for jewellery and also for crystals, so it made sense to be able to bring both of those loves together.

I am inspired by everything from photography, the ocean, an endless summer, and the simple natural beauty of the crystals themselves.

2. What made you so passionate about working with raw crystals? 

I have always had interest in the healing powers of crystals and I have always carried around a little pouch of crystals in my handbag (I think I got this little trait from my mum). I find the natural beauty of crystals so fascinating; each piece has its very own characteristics; which also makes each piece individual and special for our customers.

I mainly work with Clear Quartz, which is my favourite stone and is known to be the master healer of all crystals. I have been wearing a clear quartz crystal for years around my neck and really do feel the power of the stone.

Quartz is a stone of harmony, which balances energies and emotions, while increasing inspiration and creativity. It works on all areas of the mind and body; awakening, amplifying & transmitting energy, while clarifying the thought processes and clearing away negative energies.

I also have some exclusive Rose Quartz pieces, which is the stone of love. It promotes unconditional love, forgiveness, infinite peace and compassion. It creates harmony in relationships and teaches us about the true essence of love. It purifies and opens up the heart allowing us to express our emotions.

3. Describe the planning and design process that goes into creating a new collection.

I am now designing four collections a year and at any one time I am designing a new collection, shooting a different collection & also launching a new one. It doesn’t stop! But I love it.

When designing a new collection, I look at past collections and also see what our customers are asking for.  There are quite a few things I must keep in mind when I am designing and one thing is simplicity. 

4. What are your favourite clothes to pair with a Krystal Knight piece? 

I will mix up pieces and coloured stones depending on my outfit. I am a denim shorts and low side slung singlet type of girl, so layering all of my jewellery with a casual outfit can really dress an outfit up and make it perfect for a night out.

5. You recently stocked some homeware pieces such as Agate bookends and crystal candle holders. What gave you the idea to branch out into lifestyle products? 

This also for me, was a natural progression, I spotted them while sourcing new crystals and had to have them, the colours are so stunning and the intricate natural beauty of them are so so beautiful! I am working on some new home wares projects coming up, which I cannot wait to share! 

All pictures belong to Krystle Knight. 

By Sharon Jiang 

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Spotlight: Art by Ling McGregor

It is an awesome moment when interviewer and interviewee goes to the same university. I met Ling McGregor, a student at the University of Technology Sydney and part time illustrator about three months ago at a blogger brunch. We bonded over our UTS pride, chatting casually about the happy and stressful times at uni. Such is the coincidence that we both study a combined degree in Communications; hers with Law and mine with International Studies.

Our conversation flowed from uni life to fashion which was how I discovered her talent for illustration. I assumed it was just a pastime but much to my surprise, this young uni student has turned her hobby into a business. McGregor's whimsical and detailed artworks has gained a substantial following on social media where she gets regular commissioned jobs to draw her customers. Being the perfect candidate for an interview, Ling McGregor talks about her passion for drawing and her dual life as a uni student and illustrator. 

Her love of drawing dates back to her childhood. 
"I have always been drawing, painting or making things - when I was younger I used to draw on anything and everything and enter a lot of art competitions. Drawing is just something that I always wanted to do, and genuinely enjoy doing."

She has some wise words to say about 'talent'. 
"I don't think that talent is a finite capacity that anyone has; anything can be learnt. You can become good at absolutely anything by doing it constantly, making mistakes and then trying again - and in that, valuing the mistakes rather than successes. I am lucky in that I have always been surrounded by the most creative, hard working people who would be critical of all the out-of-proportion drawings along the way."

She jokingly told me she couldn't count when I asked for her top three inspirations. 
She named four: 
* My dad's oil paintings 
* Beautiful photography
* The lovely things that people say about it
* The smile my grandfather has when he shows someone my drawings. 

One artwork took six weeks to finish. 

"The artwork is titled 'Beguiled' (shown above) based on photography by Greta Tuckute.

About 60% was quickly finished in two days. However, the whole thing seemed to take so much longer as it was drawn over a period of six weeks in total (with an overseas trip in the middle leaving it unfinished for ages). It took a quite a long time to get this one started, and there was just so much lace and hair to get through but I am pretty happy with how it turned out." 

Her favourite tools of the trade are "Graphite and colour pencils, with the help of erasers and pastel blenders." 

She merges her art knowledge with her Uni studies. 

"I am finding so many ways to incorporate art into my uni work. Art provides so much insight into a culture and its history, and quite naturally works it's way into essays for writing and cultural studies. More overtly, I have also had several assignments where I have been able to illustrate pieces of both fiction and non-fiction, and I like the idea of having art and writing published together more generally." 

She has too many dreams and future plans to count!

"I would really love to go into law or writing or editing, and I am probably going to be drawing regardless of which one I end up in. I am always excited for the opportunities that come up along the way, and right now I am happy doing a million internships and some really great commissioned projects while I try to figure it all out." 

She was inspired by my floral crown THE EUPHORIC. 

All photos belong to Ling McGregor. 

You can check out her gallery HERE and follow her Facebook HERE. 

By Sharon Jiang 

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